Well MB01 L96 Airsoft sniper rifle

Yes, I bought a sniper rifle. A friend sold it ridiculously cheap so I couldn't resist. The weapon is a version av the famous AWG sniper rifle from counter-strike. The model is made by Well, and this particular version MB01A I bought with 3 mags, silencer, bipod and a hunting BSA Contender hunting scope.

All geared up fitted with silencer, scope and bipod it's a stunning 135 cm long, weighing about 4 kg. 

With 0,43 g bb's it seems to get the distance, but the hop feels unreliable, as it hasn't been used all that much it probably just needs to be used and run in.

As it comes to sniper gear, I'm gonna use a hip bag for tools, mags and bb's. Then of course a radio and a ghillie suit. I will need a side arm as well, but that will have to wait for now.

The playing style will flip my mind around completely. All my military training was either based on assault or peacekeeping. I have to wrap my mind around being fast to find a good firing position, and just lay there keeping radio contact to the rest of the team.  Popping one or two enemies while reporting back every move I see. Stealth and most importantly patience will be key to a successful sniping run.

At this writing time the weather is wet and cold, so I won't hit the dirt just yet. I'm still thinking of putting a 3 tone camo painting on the gun and barrel before the weather is suitable.

I shot the rifle in a bit a couple of days ago. The hop seems more stable now, and the scope is more or less dead centre when shooting on targets about 30 m away. Able to hit 3 beer cans with 3 shots, one per can from a standing position 30 m away is good enough for me right now. Since the gun is totally original, and there is much upgradable parts awailable!

Radio Controlled flying

Starting out buying a 450 size collective pitch 3d helicopter a couple of years ago, I realized quickly it wasn't a good idea. Collective pitch (referred to as CP)  helicopters are very difficult to handle, specially when your new to the hobby and all your concentration goes to keeping the copter straight, how are you to navigate it?

I used a simulator for quite some time, didn't feel as real as the real deal but I got a hang of the navigation at least.

Shortly after I bought a piper 1050 mm wing span plane. used it to get a hang of navigation in real life. The piper must have been the most rewarding thing I bought that year. It was so forgiving, though I of course crashed a couple of times but the foam was repairable.

With more confidence I took more risks with the 450 copter and crashed. Had to change all the swash servos. back up in the air now more careful again.

Then I bought a micro quad for about 70 €, and damn! This was the way to train up for the 450. The quad handled like the copter but was more forgiving, centering out almost at once when you let the sticks go. And the crashing, weighing approx 33 g it was really durable.

Later on I bought a friend's old 400 size quad for camera lifting. I fried the control board with a loose wire and had to construct the quad from scratch using modular components.

Got it done fairly cheap and quickly. Thanks to the modular build it is easier to change components that break in a crash. Now I tried lifting my Canon Ixus pocket camera, weighing approx 185 g it's quite heavy for this setup. Got a few pictures taken simply by putting the camera on taking photos every 2-3 sec on interval.

Next project will be testing out fpv gear, mostly because the airsoft team demand a UAV for use in recon missions. This time I will build a Tricopter from scrath to get more agility for the reaco nmissions.

Airsoft Rk95tp (Gk99) by G&G

The rk, for me a natural choice for first airsoft weapon. An excellent skirmish weapon right out of the box. I actually played four or five games with it as it was without any bigger adjustments or upgrades. My friend tells me it has a distinguished sound to it when I fire, as the pneumatic blow back cap hits the body. We even used this to our advantage ;)

The Iron sights aren't as good as the real steels, but I found that with the back sight in the middle position, in night mode, its easier to aim quickly.

The first upgrade I made to this gun, was fitting a side bracket on the side. I got help from a local store. One of the employees had made the exact same upgrade to his Rk a while back and even wrote a post on in. The Cyma AK side bracket fits the rk if you drill a extra whole on the front as shown here. First I measured the distance of the holes in the gun. then I drilled the hole in line with the two other holes on the bracket.

As screws, I had to modify the smallest screws I found at a DIY store. I shortened them and flattened the hat for the back screw, as it would jam any sight of getting on the rail.

I played with my friends cobra sight for a couple of games. In the cold the batteries (2x ,1.5v AA) tend to run out or weaken, so the sight didn't work very well. I even had to remove the sight in the middle of a fire fight once!

I later bought a ACOG red dot sight from a team-mate from Vaasa. It worked better for some reason!? Although the voltage in 2 xLR44 batteries sum up to the same as in the cobra.

Here is the rail fitted with my ACOG. Its high up, but works very well. This set-up I have used now for say around 6 - 7 games now. The Lr44 batteries x2 seems to work very well, even in colder conditions. Have my first pair in still, and they are still going strong!

The guns Hop starts to be run-in and is very reliable now as well.

The last and not least upgrade was making a cheek raiser for the stock. The only thing is, there is no airsoft version made for the gun. You might be able to get your hand on a real steal cheek raiser, but the chance is very slim.

I chose to modify a Magpul CRT (M4) large cheek raiser. I used a electric tube, the same diameter as the stock. I cut of a 5 mm piece from the full length of the tube to a "half moon" so that it can be fitted on the stock. I then anchored it inside the cheek raiser using foam and 3 screws fitted with wall plugs in the foam.

When the foam was fully set roughly 24 h later, I cut out the pipe, and some of its surroundings because it has to flex when it is pressed on / pulle off the stock.

Then I coated the foam with primer, and later painted it with matte black to hide the white foam. The result wasn't an art piece, but so far it hold up pretty good. The pipe snaps on the stock hard, and barely moves sideways.

Hopefully the foam will be solid enough to taste some battle. The stock seldom gets a beating, but you never know.




Here is the result!